In three weeks we’ll announce the first winner of the Telegraph Morrisons Best British Recipe competition, so keep your entries coming in. The quality so far has been outstanding and there are already plenty of recipes online at telegraph.co.uk/bestbritishrecipes.
Summer is really here nowand whether it’s a christening, wedding anniversary or just lunch in the garden for friends, it seems to bring out the party in us. But worrying about feeding the hordes can dampen even the best cook’s partyspirit.
A poached salmon is a sensible solution. It might not be at the cutting edge of culinary fashion butit’s crowd-pleasing and delicious. A whole fish cooked on the bone always tastes better than measly fillets. It makes a splendid centrepiece and can be prepared in advance. And the rich flesh goes a long way, so it won’t break the bank. Serve it simply with British green beans or runner beans tossed in salted butter, plus some waxy new potatoes (see recipe, below).
When it comes to choosing a fish, the ultimate is wild salmon. However, it’s now endangered, so effectively off the menu. But happily, salmon farming methods are much improved from the low point of the Eighties, and as long as you look for a well-reared fish such as one with the Freedom Food label you should be in for a treat.
The sheer size of a whole salmon poses problems, so here are three ways to tackle it.
Whichever option you choose, allow8oz/225g fish per person.
The perfect poached salmon should not be dry, hard and opaque, but moist and easily flaked.
Fish kettle
The proper way to poach a fish is in along narrow pan. Fish kettles start atabout £20, but some fishmongers (including some Morrisons fish counters) will lend you one. This method works for any weight of fish.
How to do it
- Half fill the fish kettle with water and add enough salt tomake it almost seawatersalty.
- Lower the fish on to the rack provided, adding more water to cover if necessary. Addtwo bay leaves andasliced lemon.
- Bring the pan slowly to the boil. Let it bubble hard for 20 seconds, thenturn off the heat and put the lid on.
- Leave to cool, then lift out of the water to drain.
Oven-baked
This is a good solution for cooking a bigfish whole. You can also cut a really huge fish in half and reassemble it after cooking, with judicious use of cucumber slices and herbs to disguise the join.
How to do it
- Preheat the oven to 140C/275F/gas mark 1.
- Season the fish with salt and pepper inside and out, and stuff the cavity with lemon slices.
- Oil a sheet of good quality foil twice the length of your salmon. Wrap the salmon in it, sealing the edges tightly and making sure there are no tears orgaps.
- Lay the fish on your largest baking sheet and bake for two hours (for a 9lb/4kg fish).
- Leave to cool in the foil parcel.
Dishwasher
Stories about cooking salmon in the dishwasher have been circulating on the internet for years, but don’t dismiss it as an urban myth. It’s really a similar method to oven baking, but with anadvantage.
Because the top temperature of most dishwashers is only 70C (160F), there’s no risk of overcooking and toughening or drying out the flesh. Instead, the fish is cooked very slowly (a method much favoured by modern chefs) to a melting, still slightly translucent, but perfect flakiness. If you like your salmon very firm, this is not the method for you. Ifyou like it soft and moist, read on.
Of course, dishwashers vary subtly in terms of exact temperature and length of program. Yet it seems not to matter. I’ve tried it with a large (9lb/4kg) salmon, one with a 75C (170F) 1.5-hour cycle and another with a 70C (160F) 2.5-hour cycle and the results were identical.
You could always give it another wash if you feel it needs it. But don’t be tempted to use the eco wash for cooking the fish: this is no time for ultra-low temperatures.
How to do it
- Prepare the salmon as for oven baking, but wrap in a second layer offoil.
- Lay on the dishwasher shelf (ideally the top one) being very careful not to tear or pierce the foil.
- Obviously, don’t add detergent or try to wash any dishes at the same time. Wash on the hottest wash, including the drying cycle.
- Leave to cool in the foil.
Preparing the cooled salmon
Once cooled, peel away the skin. Strokeaway the brown, fatty layer withyour fingers or a spoon. Use the foil or fish kettle strainer to liftthe fish on to a platter. Decorate with cucumber slices and herbs.
Serve with lemon wedges andmayonnaise.
Jersey Royal potato salad with tarragon, cornichons and capers
A lively potato salad with the crunch and tang of the ingredients of a tartar sauce, to eat with the salmon.
Serves 4-6
1lb 2oz/500g small Jersey Royal potatoes
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 tbsp capers
2 tbsp chopped cornichons
4 sprigs tarragon, chopped
4 tbsp olive oil
small bunch of parsley, chopped
- Boil the potatoes until just done. Drain well.
- Meanwhile, whisk the vinegar with apinch of salt, then whisk in the oil.
- Mix the dressing with the warm potatoes and the other ingredients.
- Serve warm or at room temperature.
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